Chapter One · MMXVI

The Story

A small house, a borrowed barn, and a year of waiting for the first cabernet to find its voice.

风 · 马 · 野 · 韵
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EST. MMXVI
— Manifesto

We did not start with a winery. We started with a feeling — that the gravel under the western foot of the Helan range carried something the world had not yet listened to.

So we leased a hectare in Ganchengzi, borrowed a barn, and waited. The first vintage taught us patience. The second taught us silence. The third finally let us speak.

The trunk of the oldest apricot tree on the Ganchengzi block
02 / Years

A house in nine moments.

Not all of them are good. The good ones we keep. The bad ones we taste again every January, just to remember.

2016

A first walk through the gravel

We meet the block at Ganchengzi for the first time. Nothing planted. Just stones, wind, and an old apricot tree at the corner. We sign the lease the next morning.

Two pairs of dusty work boots standing on alluvial gravel
2017

Cabernet Sauvignon goes in

Massal selection from a friend in Bordeaux. Twelve thousand vines, by hand, in three weeks. Two of them die before summer. The rest hold.

Workers planting bare-rooted cabernet vines in a freshly dug row
2018

Marselan, then Shiraz

We add the two grapes that will define the house. Marselan for power, Shiraz for spice. Both find their feet on gravel faster than we expect.

Two nursery pots of grafted cuttings labelled Marselan and Shiraz
2019

First harvest, kept aside

Six barrels. Pressed by foot. Quietly drunk by the team alone. Not for sale. We needed to know what the land tasted like before anyone else did.

Six unlabelled bottles of young red wine lined up in a dim barn
2020

The cellar

A long stone room, half buried, with a constant 14°C and the smell of damp limestone. Built by two stonemasons from Wuzhong over the course of one winter.

Stone cellar mid-construction in winter
2021

First public vintage

Three thousand bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sold by word of mouth in Beijing, Shanghai, and one shop in Hong Kong. Gone in eleven days.

Unlabelled wine boxes being loaded into a dark-green van
2022

A vintage that asks to be remembered

Cool spring, dry July, late ripening. We pick at night for ten days. Marselan in particular comes in with a perfume we have not seen since.

Night harvest — a crate of cold marselan lit by a single headlamp
2024

The maison opens

By appointment only. A cellar door for ten people at a time, in front of the apricot tree that started everything.

The open door of the maison at dusk, warm amber light inside
2026

Now

Three single‑vineyard wines, no second label, no shortcut. The house is still small. We intend to keep it that way.

A single bottle and one glass on a stone wall overlooking the vineyard
Philosophy

We make wine the way you read a poem.

Slowly. Out loud. Once at the start of the day, then again at sunset, when the meaning has had time to settle.

We work native yeasts because we want our barrels to argue with us. We do not fine, because we are not afraid of a little weather inside the bottle. We use the smallest amount of sulphur we can get away with at bottling, and not a milligram more. The result is not a wine that wins competitions on the first sip — it is a wine that you remember a week later, in another room, for no reason at all.

04 / People

Eight hands, two grandmothers, one apricot tree.

L. Wen, founder — a portrait at first light in a vineyard row
Founder

L. Wen

Ningxia‑born, Bordeaux‑trained. Walked the Ganchengzi block for the first time in 2016 and never left.

Y. Zhao, cellar master — inside the stone cellar with a wine thief
Cellar master

Y. Zhao

Twenty years in Ningxia cellars before joining the house. Believes a barrel knows more than the winemaker most days.

The Helan Eight — the eight families who work the vineyard
Vineyard

The Helan Eight

Eight families from the village below the block. Pick by hand, prune by hand, and have done so for three vintages now.

“The wind made the soil. The soil made the vine. We are only the witness.”
— Founder's Note
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